I was on a job recently where I had to completely rework the entry door install on a house. It was difficult to tell from a distance, but the original work had been poorly done (and that might be an understatement!). All of the errors made in that original installation became more and more apparent once I started disassembling the install in order to right the wrongs. Sometimes you have to peel back more than the skin to see how rotten the fruit is at the core. And then you need to take a strategic approach to help that core heal.
The original rotten door entry (Note: Click any image to enlarge)
Peeling the Layers
We started by removing the side casings. This is where we encountered our first issue.
Removing the casings revealed improper weather barrier installation—no flashing was applied (see photos below). On top of that, one of the sides was missing a section of housewrap, leading to rotten sheathing. There was also rot at the bottom corner of the opening.
Of course, if flashing had been incorporated with the housewrap, these problems could have been prevented.
When I removed the pediment, I found that there was another section of housewrap missing; fortunately the damage was superficial and minor.
One of my biggest issues at this point was that the door riser was sealed to the concrete landing. Whenever I see this (and I often do), I always expect to see some rot. I never know how much.
In this case, by sealing the bottom, water had become trapped behind the trim, causing damage to the sheathing and to the rim joist, which was badly rotted.
When I removed the casings I had noticed the bottom corners were bulging out about one inch. After removing the riser, along with the rubber flashing, I found that someone had attempted a repair, but they only made matters worse! They had applied a 1-in. thick insulation board to the structure, further trapping water at the corners.
I also discovered that when they removed the existing riser, they filled in the rotten sheathing with foam insulation, trapping even more water against the rim joist!
My next step was to remove the door unit. I had to pry off the rubber flashing from the top of the bottom opening.
After closely examining the bottom of the door opening, I found that they had added a piece of 3/4-in. plywood over the sub floor in order to raise the door. At this point, I just removed the rotten piece.
I poked at the rim joist when I removed the sheathing and found that it also had to be replaced.
I then removed some more sheathing on both sides in order to cut the rim joist at a solid section.
To remove the damaged section, I cut both ends and removed all the nails securing it. In order to remove the rim joist, which was pinned behind the stoop, I snapped off half of the board’s width. The other half was behind the stoop, so I ran a sawzall behind the board to cut all the nails.
The board then slid out very easily (boy, don’t you just love that!?).
I should mention that it’s always a good idea to clean up after every phase of the job. Cleaning as you work will help you get better results, and it’ll improve your mood, too—working with rotten wood isn’t exactly fun, but keeping the site clean and organized sure helps.
And Now for the Real Job
I began by taking three measurements for my width (middle and both ends), and I went with the smallest one just to be sure the joist would fit.
Then I measured for my length, and cut the joist about an eighth smaller. Doing this allowed me to slide in the rim joist very easily.
I ripped down and cut to length a piece of pressure-treated lumber. I always seal any fresh cuts with a good wood preservative before installing a rim joist.
After tapping in the rim joist, and securing it to the floor joists, I added metal plates to tie the repaired section to the existing rim joist. Since the stoop was placed up against the rim joist, I also added a piece of self-adhesive flashing to protect the structure. This important detail was previously missing, and it contributed to the water damage.
Installing self-adhesive flashing helps prevent any further rot to the rim joist. I was sure to leave a space of about 1/4 in. between the stoop and rim joist to allow for future drainage.
As a side note, I always make sure to keep my long projects weather-tight and secure, no matter what the forecast says! You don’t want to have any issues that could force you to pay for damages. Trust me.
I ran continuous beads of exterior-grade adhesive to the rim joist and studs.
I then installed new, 1/2-in. sheathing, which I cut to fit around the stoop. I left about 1/4 in. of a gap so that the sheathing wouldn’t rot, and to allow for proper drainage.
I also added 1/2-in. sheathing to the jambs to act as spacers.
I applied self-adhesive flashings in order to make the door opening watertight.
I started with the sill, and followed by adding corner flashings to each corner—these are called “bow ties” (see photo, right).
Then I installed both sides, repeating the same process at the top of the opening with more bow ties.
Instead of installing the unit into the opening and fussing with wood shims, I opted for a different approach. This different way made it easier, faster, and allowed me to work alone. I used deck screws as shims on each side to make my unit dead-plumb with no fussing.
First, I marked the location of the hinges onto the rough opening, and I marked the location of the top and bottom of the unit. Starting from the sill on the opening, I marked a center line in the middle, and then measured half the distance both ways to the outside dimension (O.D.) of the jamb—that’s where I’d start installing “shim screws”. I installed a pair of “shim screws” at each location, keeping them flat and spaced enough to catch the jamb’s width.
I began the shimming process from the bottom. I measured up 1 in. from the bottom location on the jamb, and I installed a pair of screws. To know how deep to set the screws, I set my speed square flat on the sill and held it on the mark I’d made for the O.D. of the jamb. I adjusted the screws until they touched the square. I prefer to use a screw gun rather than an impact—screw guns make it easier to set the screws. Once the bottom screws were set, I installed the next set of screws plumb to the bottom screws using a 2-ft. level. I continued in this manner up the jamb, using each previous set of screws as a starting point. Once I reached the top, I added a set of screws one inch below the top of the door unit.
When I completed the jamb side, I transferred all the screw locations to the other side and pre-set those screws. Then, I cut a board to the exact dimension of the door unit. Using this board as a guide, I set the screws across from each other to fit the board. The opening was then ready to receive the door unit.
Re-installing the Entry Door
I always like to try to fit the door into the opening, just so I can be sure it fits before I lay beads of caulking on the sill and secure the unit.
In this case, the door fit perfectly. But at that point, I realized that I didn’t pre-drill holes into the jambs to secure the door! I made sure not to hit the shim screws. I then pre-set all the screws.
I ran two beads of sealant to the sill. This would help prevent water and drafts from entering. It would also help to stop any squeaks between the threshold and sill.
Installing a single door unit is a one-person job, but having one with sidelites requires an extra pair of hands. We dropped the unit into the opening, making sure the sill and fresh beads of caulking made a good seal. Then we tilted the unit into place.
Before securing the unit, we used a level to check for plumb, and we also made sure the unit was plumb off the house. This last part is very important so that the door doesn’t swing in either direction by itself.
Exterior Trim
I pre-assemble all my exterior trim, and I do it right on the jobsite. I use a small portable DeWalt table saw to rip the casing to width, so it will fit perfectly between the jamb and the siding.
I leave the casing legs long so I can use them as a story pole to lay out the entablature details—that includes the astragral molding, the frieze, and the crown.
On this job, I wanted to match the fluting to the original casing, so I laid out the flutes using a Trim Gauge. I like this tool a lot. It rides smoothly on the edge of a board, and it’s easy to adjust for different reveals.
To stop all the flutes so the tops are perfectly straight, I attach a temporary stop to the casing leg. This is a pretty fool-proof system, and it’s fast.
With the sled set up and stops on both pieces of casing, I can run four flutes, one on each leg, for both the inside and the outside flutes, then adjust the sled to cut the inside flutes.
I pocket screw the legs to the frieze, and glue that joint, too.
Then I install the astragal moldings, which I also pre-assemble so that the miters are tight. The weather can be brutal where I live, deep freezing in the winter and high humidity in the summer, so I use PVC trim whenever possible—that way I never have to worry about coming back to a job for repairs. PVC isn’t affected by moisture content, only temperature. And with PVC cement, the miters are joined molecularly. I never have to caulk anything.
And another thing about PVC trim: I can sandwich endless pieces on top of each other without worrying about moisture getting trapped between the pieces and causing rot—after all, that’s why the people hired me in the first place, to fix the rot!
I build up the frieze from two boards, then wrap the crown molding around the top board so it terminates against the backboard, which makes it easy to butt into the existing siding. Just like the astragal molding, I start by cutting the miters and dry-fitting the pieces, then I pre-assemble the miters before attaching the crown.
Final Flashing
After securing the door unit into the opening, it was time to apply the outer layer of wall flashing.
We started from the bottom and worked our way up to the top, overlapping each piece by six inches. In order to prevent moisture from entering behind the siding, we needed to seal the wall flashing to the housewrap.
This is where most leaks start, and they can create serious rot due to improper sealing of the housewrap to the wall flashing. I applied the wall flashing to the door jamb, about 1/2 in. in from the edge of the jamb, leaving more than a 1/4-in. reveal. The back of the flashing lapped over the housewrap about 2 in.—this was to ensure that no moisture or water will enter the opening.
Since I pre-assembled my exterior trim as a unit, and made sure to measure correctly, installation was fast and accurate. Once we tilted the trim kit in place and checked the fit, it was ready to be fastened.
We secured the trim kit to the door and wall sheathing, making sure the head and side casings were plumb and level. I like to use screws rather than nails, because then I can be confident that the trim will stay secure, and that the joints will remain tight for years.
I installed a piece of flashing before adding the pre-assmbled plinth blocks. This flashing would help reduce any water from entering behind the stoop. I sealed the top edge of the flashing with housewrap tape, and left the bottom edge open for water to drain out.
Flashing the Head
I don’t own a brake, but sometimes I wish I did—especially for custom trim like the deep entablature above this door. I needed a piece of aluminum bent, and I wasn’t going to rent a brake for just one piece! So I decided to make a jig from a scrap piece of plywood, and I fastened that to my worktable.
I measured out two lines 90 degrees to each other for the lengths I needed. Each line’s measurement equaled the exact width of the piece of flashing. Using my jigsaw, and a very steady hand, I cut each line to its exact distance. If the cuts were off, I wouldn’t be able to make the piece I wanted. I had to be sure my cuts were perfect.
Once my cuts were done, I simply curled the piece of flashing, inserting one corner first, and slowly forming the piece into the jig until both outer edges of flashing—along with the inside edge—were in the jig about an inch. Then it was just a matter of pulling the piece of flashing through the jig, and forming the piece of flashing I needed.
I secured the flashing above the head using builder’s tape. I could have used another piece of Vycor, but I figured the housewrap would also cover the top leg of the flashing.
After the metal flashing was secured, I pulled the housewrap back down and trimmed it to fit. I then tied in the siding.
Before leaving, I caulked a few joints to be sure the door was complete and ready for the homeowner to paint (again).
Good job Manny. I have come across a few your articles in the past and have enjoyed them as well because it seems that you write about the the challenging pain in the but jobs which is great because I like you get regularly and welcome the challenge to make another customer happy with quality job regardless of how fussy it maybe or particular they may be.
Keep them coming and yes send picts of the truck. I just a sprinter for myself which very well stocked and have old chevy box diesel that am considering selling for Mitsubishi with custom body.
Ironically, I have some pictures and video of Manny’s truck…yep, I was pretty impressed with his setup, too! I’ll put it together and get Manny to write us a description.
Gary
Hi Gary… I new we could rely on you.
Oh by the we met at the Hamilton Lumber Yard in NJ earlier this year. I did buy the Kapex and I have to tell it’s simply a dream. I personally use it for everything. My crew uses the 10″ Makita slider. It so easy to move around up/down several flights of steps set up is easy and it’s been dean on accurate since it came out of the box.
Great article! I love how thoroughly it documented both what can be done wrong as well as demonstrating how to do it right!
I also “pre-plumb” my rough openings, but I do it with paired tapered shims. I like the solid support a pair of shims gives me to prevent the jamb from twisting.
I first identify where the hinges are located (typical locations are already marked on my long level); then I plumb top and bottom locations; then I fill in the middle. I hold the shims in place with 18ga brads.
Once one side ( hinge side, typ) is installed, I can set the rest of the jamb using the door reveals in pla
.
..once one side of the jamb (hinged, typ) is set, I can install and adjust the rest of the jamb in place using the door reveals.
I have one question in the waterproofing technique: in the photo, it appears that you are laying two continuous beads with closed ends on top of the sill.
Doesn’t this have the potential to trap water inside the loop of sealant?
I was taught to lay one solid bead towards the interior that also runs up the sides of rough opening.
Hi Joseph, I’ve done this technique in different ways ( with clapboard for pitched sill, with one bead and also with two beads sealant). I also rolled up vycor to itself as a gasket to sealed the bottom of the door. These all worked great with no issues. Having what I done on this door prevented any moisture or water from entering the loop.
Nice job. One questionmark though. Sandwiching organic material between two layers of flashing, isn’t that prone for moisture to stay an ultimately root?
Hi Karlen, Thanks for reading my article. I’ve been flashing doors and windows this way for about 15 yrs and haven’t had any moisture or water problems. Most of my customers are repeat business so I’m back their several times for different projects and I never see any issues with my previous work regarding windows or doors that have been done for years.
Thanks Scott, The job took us about five days. I always find myself spending a couple hours a day on set up and clean up which makes these jobs take longer to do. We didn’t plan on the rotten rim joist and also we did a good amount of siding repair work around the whole door unit. I bid the job at a set price and billed for any additional work which I mentioned.
Great article, love the attention to detail and the thorough explanation of each step. Just curious, What happened to the pediment?? And do you have to have the Festool router because of the mounting plates in order to have a sled?
Thanks Justin, I have the pediment in my storage with all my other saved materials.You never know when your going to need it. I’m not sure on the mounting plates, maybe Gary can answer that.
May I infer if some of you, there, are portuguese, or else, descendents of portuguese people.? Anyway, the reasom why I´m writing this is about your work: it´s look like well done.
Overall, a nicely detailed repair job Emanuel!…from the sill up.
We do many repair jobs like this and I have a couple of critical thoughts and questions about what is detailed below the door sill in your article:
1. Why use pressure treated for band board replacement? P.T. generally has a higher moisture content from the yard than s.p.f. framing lumber– and you are going to get more shrinkage in width. The original construction would generally not call for p.t.; why use it here?–and with a double vapor barrier as one reader called attention to? It seems that dry framing lumber would be more advantageous here because of the shrinkage issue and the fact that Grace I&W will bond better to dry rather than wet stock. Besides, why use the I&W over P.T. if you think outside moisture will rot what it is supposed to be protecting?
2. Your existing stoop is covering a key area of band board and foundation sill plate (sure looks like from the photograph that the foundation wall is a full 6″ or so below finish stoop). Future water penetrating here would be a real concern for me*. Also, unless you gained access from crawl or basement to clip the band to joists and sill, you lack a good structural connection to existing floor system in this area.
3. Lastly, you note that you leave a 1/4″ gap between stoop and band sheathing for drainage. Seems to me, this would be your only opportunity for stopping that moisture penetration you should be concerned about. I would at least consider backer rod and a quality polyurethane sealant (like Vulkem 110) here.
Finally, budget is always a real factor for any remodel job…. but you point out that your client was hiring you to fix things “right”. How could you even consider taking on (not to mention warranting) a job like this unless the customer also paid you to remove and replace the overlapping masonry stoop that partially covers the structural wood floor system?
William “Sonny” Wiehe Jr.
*If you somehow shimmied that I&W down behind that stoop and pressed it tight up against your new band and existing floor system sill plates for a good weather seal (maybe without pointing it our in your article), then you are a true carpentry magician… and my critique on this point is unwarranted.
Sonny, Thanks for all your concerns including the positive one. We in this trade have to repair each project we come across in the best possible way with a budget to follow (but budget wasn’t an issue here).
Today’s PT wood doesn’t have as much moisture as it did years ago. Cutting the rim joist and fitting it tightly with metal connectors and structural screws help keep it in place. We installed the sheathing a little higher than the rim joist acting as support for the sub floor with glue and screws. This helps keep the door unit from moving, I haven’t had a door move yet.
Having used the I.W was necessary because there was no sheathing covering the rim joist from behind the stoop and yes I did get a tight, smooth seal behind the stoop because I used a flat piece of aluminum to press the I.W to the rim joist, but if any moisture did enter there is where the PT will come in handy. My number one goal at that point was to keep the rim joist and sheathing as dry as possible so if any water or moisture gets down behind the stoop it can drain down and run off the I.W. Also having the I.W helps prevent leaks from any fasteners nailed through it like my kick board below the door sill.
Regarding the stoop, we fastened all the joists to the rim joist and connected both ends with metal plates. Just behind the stoop where the house meets there, is a space lower than the sill where any water falls it will drain in both directions outward.
Regarding the gap any sealant or backer rod in my mind is a way to trap moisture and cause the problems here all over again. We need things to drain not penetrate into our homes.
The stoop did not need to be removed. Like I mentioned earlier we have to repair any type of project to the best of our knowledge. Doing all the steps (and more than needed) I feel very comfortable and pleased that this entry door will stand solid and dry with many years of entering and exiting.
Thanks for reading Sonny, Hope I answered all your questions and some.
Emanuel
I don’t know if others commented on this but the stoop was a red flag for me. There is still an opportunity for water to do some unseen damage.
I had a similar situation in my back stoop. I didn’t remove the entire stoop, but I used a nice piece of 20 inch flashing at the bottom of the door and behind the stoop.
Otherwise, the project was done methodically with a lot of attention to details.
Thanks Noel, I ran the self adhering flashing behind the stoop past the sill about an inch plus having a space between the stoop and house leaves enough space for water to drain in both directions. (left and right)
Great work on repairing that entrance door, it is amazing what some contractors will leave out just to get it done and paid not having longevity in mind.
Clean up is quite essential as well, I’ll try to practice that more often on my projects.
Thnx
Yes I to would like pics of your truck
Thanks for the kind words. Yes clean up is very important on all jobsites. We do a quick clean up and organize our tools every hour which helps run our jobs smoothly and also makes clean up at the end of the day very easy.
Great article I have been looking for something like this I have a similar problem I noticed a trickle of water in my basement during a storm. I pulled back the insulation to see the back of my concrete porch that was poured against the house with no flashing. The sheathing is completely rotted away. I’m going to be selling the house so I need to have it repaired. I didn’t see where you work out of. Do you do any work in the Maryland area or know anyone in that area you would recommend for the project?
Thanks Andy, I’m glad you enjoyed the article. I’m up in Massachusetts and don’t know anybody in your area, but thanks for the offer. Hope you find someone.
First of all thanks for the great article I’ve seen the same problem several times now I have more fire power to do a better job.
Second, the jig for forming the flashing, if I understand what you did was just make the shape in the plywood and all you did was pull the piece through? it sounds too easy and really makes me look dumb for some of my solutions over the years.
And I’ll second the I’d like a look at your truck set up.
Thanks for this informative and thorough treatment of a common carpentry problem. Rotten rim joists are no joke. Even for serious DIY homeowners like me, touching a serious structural problem such as this is usually out of the question, but seeing how it should be done helps when sizing up a carpenter during the bid and evaluation process.
Thanks for this article with photos, Emanuel! I think we are looking at having to do this repair for our back door in south Georgia. Do you know about how much we are looking at in terms of cost to repair by a third party?
Thanks Micha,
I’m glad you found this article useful. A job like this one not including the materials and additional work runs a couple of thousand in my area. Just make sure to flash properly which will prevent future problems like this one did.
Wow!! I love the fact that you applied the flashing everywhere water was an issue. I’m in the process of doing the same repair to a rotten Rim Joist, Studs, Sheathing and Sub-Floor. All caused by the lack of flashing. My builder filled the space between the stoop and Rim Joist with sheathing. I’m not sure how to flash this area where stoop meets house. The Sill Plate is lower than the stoop, and I’m thinking that any water that flows down there will eventually find it’s way to the basement ceiling. Can I use the flashing tape to overlap onto the concrete and then cover that with the trim piece under the door?
My guess is that using the flashing tape onto the concrete will eventually deteriorate over time. If there is space between the lower edge of the sill and stoop, I would try to slide a piece of metal flashing between the stoop and sheathing. Use a long sawzall blade to help shave down some of the sheathing which will help the metal flashing slide in easier. Now the space I’m talking about acts as a gutter which will lead the water out on both sides of the stoop. I would then counter flash from the house onto the stoop adding flexible sealant to seal the flashing down onto the stoop. Doing this gives me piece of mind if the sealant ever fails.
Great article and pictures! I was wondering if I can get your opinion. We have a sliding door in the rear of our house that goes to a 2 step stoop, then down to the patio. The step down from the sliding door to the stoop is about 6 inches. The kick board underneath the sill is rotting (I assume it’s pine) and is about 4 1/2 wide (high) and sits on about 1 inch of concrete filler. I have not taken off the kick board to see what’s behind it but assuming there is good flashing, what are my next steps? Should I put an aluminum flashing like you did under the new kick board and put in new concrete filler at the bottom where it meets the stoop? And do you nail in the kickboard to the flashing / sheathing or use a strong adhesive? Also, what are your thoughts on using either cellular PVC trim or Azek for a kick board? Thanks for any suggestions.
Hi Gene,
I would remove the kick board and install a piece of aluminum flashing onto the sheathing and over the concrete filler. Make sure to install a piece of flashing tape on the top leg of the flashing. This flashing tape will seal the screws you use to install the PVC kick board and make sure to leave a space between the kick board and stoop.
Hello, just wondering if you installed a new door here or reused the existing one? I sometimes have trouble figuring when to reuse and when to just get new. Nice article by the way. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed the article. Sometimes I reinstall existing doors if their in good shape, which most of the time it ends up taking more time fussing with. Existing doors over time are out of line with their jamb units and sometimes the door slab is twisted which makes them even harder to install correctly. This was a new door unit, which made installation easier and faster, which left the client with a better product.
This is an excellent video it has helped me tackle my side door problem with the wood rotting at the bottom of the door. This step by step process showed me how to do it properly and insure it won’t happen again. I look forward watching other videos you have made that can assist me in repairing things around the house. Thank you once again for taking the time providing this information.
Came across your well done upload seeking tips for deep rot repair.
Carpenter alert – forgive my chiming in.
Specializing in doorhanging for 35 years I recommend (as noted above) only “paired” Eastern White Cedar shims to “tune” and square the finish frame like a Steinway with a full-length Stabila and 16p casing nails properly angled and placed: it can be humanly “perfect” until the Final Trump sounds…”Old School.”
A good carpenter does it by himself.
Given the novel use of “shim” screws, filling the void with polyurethane foam afterwards – which should be used regardless for insulation and adhesion – is the only way to now match the rigidity and strength (“section modulus”) of the traditional way. imj
Great article and loved all the pics too. I am doing this very same thing to my front door only I am having to replace a 4 x 8 sheet of subfloor and two floor joists. There is no rim joist so the floor joists just rest on the concrete and there is a sill plate. Previously the space under the door (which was only about an inch) to the concrete stoop was sealed off with a concrete joint filler. I did like the sunburst pediment though your work was nice too. One thing I did notice…the doorbell button was placed way over to the left of the door on the siding. Why wouldn’t the owner place it somewhere in the door frame. When I get to that part I am putting mine by the door handle.
Emanuel,
Appreciate finding this article and the video series at Fine Homebuilding on much the same subject as I’m dealing with this problem right now on an entry door at my own home. I haven’t yet pulled the door as I’m on my own and the weather is still iffy. I’ve removed to the subfloor, found and removed most of the rotten plywood that extends under the threshhold. Is there any typical sill construction detail I can expect so I can anticipate what repair work I may need? From what I have demo’d it looks like the plywood decking runs atop the joists and right under the threshhold, so that seems to be “the sill” with whatever flashing may have been attempted. Looks like it might have been only an inch or two up the sides of the RO. The house was built in 1985. Know anyone skilled in this on the Lower Cape? Thank you.
Hi Mark,
Sorry for the late response. If you still are looking for help, I would try to follow what I did on my door as you have seen. Also, I don’t know anyone in your area, sorry. Feel free to send me photos of your project and I can try to help you better.
We have a situation similar to the stoop against wall in your project. What would you suggest about a situation like the one in our photo? We have heavy downpours of rain and some snow and ice in winter. concern is sealing wall and probable water intrusion under door threshold.
Before the concrete pour, the wall had a self adhesive membrane applied, probably 6″ below the old sheathing, even further below the floor joists. The concrete was poured above the level of the membrane applied, however, and what you see is a patch which, after chipping out the concrete at the wall to achieve it, overlaps the original membrane about 2-3 inches. Not great, but it did adhere. The membrane reaches just up under the door threshold and is currently re-exposed about 1 inch. There is no seal between the membrane and the bottom of the door threshold.
The perimeter of the door is planned to be sealed and house wrap applied before new cement board siding goes on. Nothing was rotting before concrete pour. We have not seen water damage on inside or out so far.
Is there a way to seal under the door threshold? Or should we give up and just chop out that top layer to keep the water away from the door? It is meant to ease movement with a walker in and out of the doorway.
Manny – Fantasic article. Most guys that explain these types of jobs don’t photgraph every little detail like this. Obvious you take pride in your work!
Regarding the flashing below the threshold, how and where is it attached? Maybe I missed it in the article. I assume you just nailed it to the rim joist and then added the VYCOR above the nails to cover?
This was a great article. Very detailed and informative. I’m actually going through a similar issue with my front door area. I have lots of rotted wood which needs to be replaced and proper flashing to prevent reoccurrence.
Do you have any recommendations for contractors in the south jersey area, cherry hill , nj ?
I wish you could do my work and you certainly did a good job on this. I am facing a rotted door I brought a doorframe a rod a threshold Joyce rotting under flooring rotting and a foot of them rot around the door under the vinyl siding. Everybody saying oh no big deal and I’m thinking oh yes big deal thanks for the article
I have severe water damage to the sill plate under my front door. Your article is excellent in describing the steps to correct the issue properly. Although I have a lot of home repair experience, I don’t have the time currently to tackle the job. I’m going to ask for some bids to do the job. Just so I have some reference (understanding every job is different) what would the repair that you performed run today. Just looking for a ball park. I appreciate any help you can provide and keep up the excellent articles documenting the work you’re doing. Very helpful.
Emanuel L Silva I want to thank you for your very detailed
steps on repairing rotten door entry.
I have a sill or sub-sill board that is rotten ant your great steps
on how to do it I think is going to help me do it the right way, as
you have detailed the job so well.
One thing you may want to include is an “Doorway Primer” so
that those that may need it will be able to learn the parts of an
doorway.
I found this picture of a doorway with the parts labeled, at this web-site link.
.
by Mark Feirer
Note: you will need to scroll down t see this picture.
I just stumbled onto your article and just wanted to say that you have a great work ethic. I am positive your clients are all very pleased. The photos ,explanations and attention to important details are appreciated by all. Thanks from Long Island. NY. Linc
Hello, Emanuel
Great job. As you were naming all the things they did wrong when they built the house. My house was built the same way. My front door looks just like the one you were working on. I was thinking no way they could be done by the same shitty construction company . Then I read you are in New Jersey. Was that house a prefab house? My house, the door frame is rotted and so it the sill and joist. The 3/4 piece of wood that was between the steps and the house has rotted away. My house is about 14 years old. I live in levittown pa. I cant believe they did this kind of work. I don’t know what I will do.
When I removed the casings I had noticed the bottom corners were bulging out about one inch. After removing the riser, along with the rubber flashing, I found that someone had attempted a repair, but they only made matters worse! They had applied a 1-in. thick insulation board to the structure, further trapping water at the corners.
After tapping in the rim joist, and securing it to the floor joists, I added metal plates to tie the repaired section to the existing rim joist. Since the stoop was placed up against the rim joist, I also added a piece of self-adhesive flashing to protect the structure. This important detail was previously missing, and it contributed to the water damage.
Then I install the astragal moldings, which I also pre-assemble so that the miters are tight. The weather can be brutal where I live, deep freezing in the winter and high humidity in the summer, so I use PVC trim whenever possible—that way I never have to worry about coming back to a job for repairs. PVC isn’t affected by moisture content, only temperature. And with PVC cement, the miters are joined molecularly. I never have to caulk anything.
Thanks Chris,
I’m glad you enjoyed the article. I’ll ask Gary if its ok and when.
Thanks Again
Emanuel
Good job Manny. I have come across a few your articles in the past and have enjoyed them as well because it seems that you write about the the challenging pain in the but jobs which is great because I like you get regularly and welcome the challenge to make another customer happy with quality job regardless of how fussy it maybe or particular they may be.
Keep them coming and yes send picts of the truck. I just a sprinter for myself which very well stocked and have old chevy box diesel that am considering selling for Mitsubishi with custom body.
Thanks again
Yannis Tsakiris
http://www.citypropertiesinc.net
http://www.citydecksinc.com
Thank you, hope the info helps you on some of your upcoming projects.
thanks again
Emanuel
Ironically, I have some pictures and video of Manny’s truck…yep, I was pretty impressed with his setup, too! I’ll put it together and get Manny to write us a description.
Gary
Thanks Gary, looking forward to writing it.
Thanks Again
Emanuel
Hi Gary… I new we could rely on you.
Oh by the we met at the Hamilton Lumber Yard in NJ earlier this year. I did buy the Kapex and I have to tell it’s simply a dream. I personally use it for everything. My crew uses the 10″ Makita slider. It so easy to move around up/down several flights of steps set up is easy and it’s been dean on accurate since it came out of the box.
Thanks again.
Yannis Tsakiris
http://www.citypropertiesinc.net
http://www.citydecksinc.com
Great article! I love how thoroughly it documented both what can be done wrong as well as demonstrating how to do it right!
I also “pre-plumb” my rough openings, but I do it with paired tapered shims. I like the solid support a pair of shims gives me to prevent the jamb from twisting.
I first identify where the hinges are located (typical locations are already marked on my long level); then I plumb top and bottom locations; then I fill in the middle. I hold the shims in place with 18ga brads.
Once one side ( hinge side, typ) is installed, I can set the rest of the jamb using the door reveals in pla
.
Thanks Joseph, I’m glad you enjoyed the article. I like that tip on marking the level. I’ll do that on my next door installation.
Thanks Again
Emanuel
..once one side of the jamb (hinged, typ) is set, I can install and adjust the rest of the jamb in place using the door reveals.
I have one question in the waterproofing technique: in the photo, it appears that you are laying two continuous beads with closed ends on top of the sill.
Doesn’t this have the potential to trap water inside the loop of sealant?
I was taught to lay one solid bead towards the interior that also runs up the sides of rough opening.
Hi Joseph, I’ve done this technique in different ways ( with clapboard for pitched sill, with one bead and also with two beads sealant). I also rolled up vycor to itself as a gasket to sealed the bottom of the door. These all worked great with no issues. Having what I done on this door prevented any moisture or water from entering the loop.
Thanks
Emanuel
Nice job. One questionmark though. Sandwiching organic material between two layers of flashing, isn’t that prone for moisture to stay an ultimately root?
Hi Karlen, Thanks for reading my article. I’ve been flashing doors and windows this way for about 15 yrs and haven’t had any moisture or water problems. Most of my customers are repeat business so I’m back their several times for different projects and I never see any issues with my previous work regarding windows or doors that have been done for years.
Thanks
Emanuel
great article really learned alot from reading this, thanks for taking the time to put this together…
the sled is a great idea… see you at JLC Live
Thanks Kreg, Glad you enjoyed it. Hope your staying busy during these tough times. see you at JLC Live.
Thanks
Emanuel
thanks for the idea of forming the flashing and you did a fantastic job . my compliments
Thanks for reading. Sometimes we have to be creative in order to save or make money and feel good about ourselves.
Emanuel
I appreciate the detail in this article.
How many hours did you put into the project?
How did you bib the job. T&M?
Thanks Scott, The job took us about five days. I always find myself spending a couple hours a day on set up and clean up which makes these jobs take longer to do. We didn’t plan on the rotten rim joist and also we did a good amount of siding repair work around the whole door unit. I bid the job at a set price and billed for any additional work which I mentioned.
Thanks for reading
Emanuel
Great article, love the attention to detail and the thorough explanation of each step. Just curious, What happened to the pediment?? And do you have to have the Festool router because of the mounting plates in order to have a sled?
Thanks Justin, I have the pediment in my storage with all my other saved materials.You never know when your going to need it. I’m not sure on the mounting plates, maybe Gary can answer that.
Thanks
Emanuel
always love seeing your attention to detail!
Thanks Tom, Glad your enjoying reading the articles and hope their helpful for you.
Thanks
Emanuel
May I infer if some of you, there, are portuguese, or else, descendents of portuguese people.? Anyway, the reasom why I´m writing this is about your work: it´s look like well done.
Greetings from Porto-Portugal
José Mota
Thank you Jose’ I’m glad you enjoyed the article.
Overall, a nicely detailed repair job Emanuel!…from the sill up.
We do many repair jobs like this and I have a couple of critical thoughts and questions about what is detailed below the door sill in your article:
1. Why use pressure treated for band board replacement? P.T. generally has a higher moisture content from the yard than s.p.f. framing lumber– and you are going to get more shrinkage in width. The original construction would generally not call for p.t.; why use it here?–and with a double vapor barrier as one reader called attention to? It seems that dry framing lumber would be more advantageous here because of the shrinkage issue and the fact that Grace I&W will bond better to dry rather than wet stock. Besides, why use the I&W over P.T. if you think outside moisture will rot what it is supposed to be protecting?
2. Your existing stoop is covering a key area of band board and foundation sill plate (sure looks like from the photograph that the foundation wall is a full 6″ or so below finish stoop). Future water penetrating here would be a real concern for me*. Also, unless you gained access from crawl or basement to clip the band to joists and sill, you lack a good structural connection to existing floor system in this area.
3. Lastly, you note that you leave a 1/4″ gap between stoop and band sheathing for drainage. Seems to me, this would be your only opportunity for stopping that moisture penetration you should be concerned about. I would at least consider backer rod and a quality polyurethane sealant (like Vulkem 110) here.
Finally, budget is always a real factor for any remodel job…. but you point out that your client was hiring you to fix things “right”. How could you even consider taking on (not to mention warranting) a job like this unless the customer also paid you to remove and replace the overlapping masonry stoop that partially covers the structural wood floor system?
William “Sonny” Wiehe Jr.
*If you somehow shimmied that I&W down behind that stoop and pressed it tight up against your new band and existing floor system sill plates for a good weather seal (maybe without pointing it our in your article), then you are a true carpentry magician… and my critique on this point is unwarranted.
Sonny, Thanks for all your concerns including the positive one. We in this trade have to repair each project we come across in the best possible way with a budget to follow (but budget wasn’t an issue here).
Today’s PT wood doesn’t have as much moisture as it did years ago. Cutting the rim joist and fitting it tightly with metal connectors and structural screws help keep it in place. We installed the sheathing a little higher than the rim joist acting as support for the sub floor with glue and screws. This helps keep the door unit from moving, I haven’t had a door move yet.
Having used the I.W was necessary because there was no sheathing covering the rim joist from behind the stoop and yes I did get a tight, smooth seal behind the stoop because I used a flat piece of aluminum to press the I.W to the rim joist, but if any moisture did enter there is where the PT will come in handy. My number one goal at that point was to keep the rim joist and sheathing as dry as possible so if any water or moisture gets down behind the stoop it can drain down and run off the I.W. Also having the I.W helps prevent leaks from any fasteners nailed through it like my kick board below the door sill.
Regarding the stoop, we fastened all the joists to the rim joist and connected both ends with metal plates. Just behind the stoop where the house meets there, is a space lower than the sill where any water falls it will drain in both directions outward.
Regarding the gap any sealant or backer rod in my mind is a way to trap moisture and cause the problems here all over again. We need things to drain not penetrate into our homes.
The stoop did not need to be removed. Like I mentioned earlier we have to repair any type of project to the best of our knowledge. Doing all the steps (and more than needed) I feel very comfortable and pleased that this entry door will stand solid and dry with many years of entering and exiting.
Thanks for reading Sonny, Hope I answered all your questions and some.
Emanuel
Manny you did a great job with this “Sow’s Ear”. I grew up in the Boston area and cut my teeth with this type of repair.
Thanks Eric, These are challenging jobs but rewarding.
Nice job Emanuel.
I don’t know if others commented on this but the stoop was a red flag for me. There is still an opportunity for water to do some unseen damage.
I had a similar situation in my back stoop. I didn’t remove the entire stoop, but I used a nice piece of 20 inch flashing at the bottom of the door and behind the stoop.
Otherwise, the project was done methodically with a lot of attention to details.
Excellent work.
Noel
Thanks Noel, I ran the self adhering flashing behind the stoop past the sill about an inch plus having a space between the stoop and house leaves enough space for water to drain in both directions. (left and right)
Emanuel
Great work on repairing that entrance door, it is amazing what some contractors will leave out just to get it done and paid not having longevity in mind.
Clean up is quite essential as well, I’ll try to practice that more often on my projects.
Thnx
Yes I to would like pics of your truck
Thanks for the kind words. Yes clean up is very important on all jobsites. We do a quick clean up and organize our tools every hour which helps run our jobs smoothly and also makes clean up at the end of the day very easy.
Thanks again
Emanuel
Great article I have been looking for something like this I have a similar problem I noticed a trickle of water in my basement during a storm. I pulled back the insulation to see the back of my concrete porch that was poured against the house with no flashing. The sheathing is completely rotted away. I’m going to be selling the house so I need to have it repaired. I didn’t see where you work out of. Do you do any work in the Maryland area or know anyone in that area you would recommend for the project?
Thanks Andy, I’m glad you enjoyed the article. I’m up in Massachusetts and don’t know anybody in your area, but thanks for the offer. Hope you find someone.
Emanuel
First of all thanks for the great article I’ve seen the same problem several times now I have more fire power to do a better job.
Second, the jig for forming the flashing, if I understand what you did was just make the shape in the plywood and all you did was pull the piece through? it sounds too easy and really makes me look dumb for some of my solutions over the years.
And I’ll second the I’d like a look at your truck set up.
Thanks David,
The jig is very useful in my line of work, that I keep it with me at all times. You never know when your going to need it.
Thanks again
Emanuel
Thanks for this informative and thorough treatment of a common carpentry problem. Rotten rim joists are no joke. Even for serious DIY homeowners like me, touching a serious structural problem such as this is usually out of the question, but seeing how it should be done helps when sizing up a carpenter during the bid and evaluation process.
Thanks Doug, I’m glad you enjoyed the article and hopefully it will be helpful to you.
Thanks again
Emanuel
Thanks for this article with photos, Emanuel! I think we are looking at having to do this repair for our back door in south Georgia. Do you know about how much we are looking at in terms of cost to repair by a third party?
Thanks Micha,
I’m glad you found this article useful. A job like this one not including the materials and additional work runs a couple of thousand in my area. Just make sure to flash properly which will prevent future problems like this one did.
Thanks for reading,
Emanuel
Wow!! I love the fact that you applied the flashing everywhere water was an issue. I’m in the process of doing the same repair to a rotten Rim Joist, Studs, Sheathing and Sub-Floor. All caused by the lack of flashing. My builder filled the space between the stoop and Rim Joist with sheathing. I’m not sure how to flash this area where stoop meets house. The Sill Plate is lower than the stoop, and I’m thinking that any water that flows down there will eventually find it’s way to the basement ceiling. Can I use the flashing tape to overlap onto the concrete and then cover that with the trim piece under the door?
Thanks,
Victor
Thanks Victor.
My guess is that using the flashing tape onto the concrete will eventually deteriorate over time. If there is space between the lower edge of the sill and stoop, I would try to slide a piece of metal flashing between the stoop and sheathing. Use a long sawzall blade to help shave down some of the sheathing which will help the metal flashing slide in easier. Now the space I’m talking about acts as a gutter which will lead the water out on both sides of the stoop. I would then counter flash from the house onto the stoop adding flexible sealant to seal the flashing down onto the stoop. Doing this gives me piece of mind if the sealant ever fails.
Hope this helps and thanks for reading
Emanuel
Emanuel,
Great article and pictures! I was wondering if I can get your opinion. We have a sliding door in the rear of our house that goes to a 2 step stoop, then down to the patio. The step down from the sliding door to the stoop is about 6 inches. The kick board underneath the sill is rotting (I assume it’s pine) and is about 4 1/2 wide (high) and sits on about 1 inch of concrete filler. I have not taken off the kick board to see what’s behind it but assuming there is good flashing, what are my next steps? Should I put an aluminum flashing like you did under the new kick board and put in new concrete filler at the bottom where it meets the stoop? And do you nail in the kickboard to the flashing / sheathing or use a strong adhesive? Also, what are your thoughts on using either cellular PVC trim or Azek for a kick board? Thanks for any suggestions.
Hi Gene,
I would remove the kick board and install a piece of aluminum flashing onto the sheathing and over the concrete filler. Make sure to install a piece of flashing tape on the top leg of the flashing. This flashing tape will seal the screws you use to install the PVC kick board and make sure to leave a space between the kick board and stoop.
Thanks for reading
Emanuel
Hello, just wondering if you installed a new door here or reused the existing one? I sometimes have trouble figuring when to reuse and when to just get new. Nice article by the way. Thanks.
Luke
Glad you enjoyed the article. Sometimes I reinstall existing doors if their in good shape, which most of the time it ends up taking more time fussing with. Existing doors over time are out of line with their jamb units and sometimes the door slab is twisted which makes them even harder to install correctly. This was a new door unit, which made installation easier and faster, which left the client with a better product.
Emanuel
This is an excellent video it has helped me tackle my side door problem with the wood rotting at the bottom of the door. This step by step process showed me how to do it properly and insure it won’t happen again. I look forward watching other videos you have made that can assist me in repairing things around the house. Thank you once again for taking the time providing this information.
Thanks Al. Glad I could help.
Great pictures and description of steps. Thank you.
Thanks Craig. I’m glad you enjoyed them.
Came across your well done upload seeking tips for deep rot repair.
Carpenter alert – forgive my chiming in.
Specializing in doorhanging for 35 years I recommend (as noted above) only “paired” Eastern White Cedar shims to “tune” and square the finish frame like a Steinway with a full-length Stabila and 16p casing nails properly angled and placed: it can be humanly “perfect” until the Final Trump sounds…”Old School.”
A good carpenter does it by himself.
Given the novel use of “shim” screws, filling the void with polyurethane foam afterwards – which should be used regardless for insulation and adhesion – is the only way to now match the rigidity and strength (“section modulus”) of the traditional way. imj
A good carpenter learns something new every day.
Thanks again – You do great work, way past me.
Thanks Will. I’m glad you enjoyed the article. I’m always looking for new ways to get the job done faster with better results.
Thanks again for reading
Emanuel
It looks great! I’m curious what the total price was for this work to be done. It looks like I’m going to need this done to my entryway.
Great article and loved all the pics too. I am doing this very same thing to my front door only I am having to replace a 4 x 8 sheet of subfloor and two floor joists. There is no rim joist so the floor joists just rest on the concrete and there is a sill plate. Previously the space under the door (which was only about an inch) to the concrete stoop was sealed off with a concrete joint filler. I did like the sunburst pediment though your work was nice too. One thing I did notice…the doorbell button was placed way over to the left of the door on the siding. Why wouldn’t the owner place it somewhere in the door frame. When I get to that part I am putting mine by the door handle.
Thank you Kathy.
I’m glad you enjoyed the article and found it useful. Good luck with your front door.
Emanuel
Emanuel,
Appreciate finding this article and the video series at Fine Homebuilding on much the same subject as I’m dealing with this problem right now on an entry door at my own home. I haven’t yet pulled the door as I’m on my own and the weather is still iffy. I’ve removed to the subfloor, found and removed most of the rotten plywood that extends under the threshhold. Is there any typical sill construction detail I can expect so I can anticipate what repair work I may need? From what I have demo’d it looks like the plywood decking runs atop the joists and right under the threshhold, so that seems to be “the sill” with whatever flashing may have been attempted. Looks like it might have been only an inch or two up the sides of the RO. The house was built in 1985. Know anyone skilled in this on the Lower Cape? Thank you.
Hi Mark,
Sorry for the late response. If you still are looking for help, I would try to follow what I did on my door as you have seen. Also, I don’t know anyone in your area, sorry. Feel free to send me photos of your project and I can try to help you better.
Thanks again
Emanuel
We have a situation similar to the stoop against wall in your project. What would you suggest about a situation like the one in our photo? We have heavy downpours of rain and some snow and ice in winter. concern is sealing wall and probable water intrusion under door threshold.
Before the concrete pour, the wall had a self adhesive membrane applied, probably 6″ below the old sheathing, even further below the floor joists. The concrete was poured above the level of the membrane applied, however, and what you see is a patch which, after chipping out the concrete at the wall to achieve it, overlaps the original membrane about 2-3 inches. Not great, but it did adhere. The membrane reaches just up under the door threshold and is currently re-exposed about 1 inch. There is no seal between the membrane and the bottom of the door threshold.
The perimeter of the door is planned to be sealed and house wrap applied before new cement board siding goes on. Nothing was rotting before concrete pour. We have not seen water damage on inside or out so far.
Is there a way to seal under the door threshold? Or should we give up and just chop out that top layer to keep the water away from the door? It is meant to ease movement with a walker in and out of the doorway.
Thanks. (Future GC in Northern New Mexico)
Manny – Fantasic article. Most guys that explain these types of jobs don’t photgraph every little detail like this. Obvious you take pride in your work!
Regarding the flashing below the threshold, how and where is it attached? Maybe I missed it in the article. I assume you just nailed it to the rim joist and then added the VYCOR above the nails to cover?
Hi James,
Thanks for reading my article and I’m glad you enjoyed it. Your correct on the flashing detail.
Thanks
Emanuel
This was a great article. Very detailed and informative. I’m actually going through a similar issue with my front door area. I have lots of rotted wood which needs to be replaced and proper flashing to prevent reoccurrence.
Do you have any recommendations for contractors in the south jersey area, cherry hill , nj ?
Thanks
I wish you could do my work and you certainly did a good job on this. I am facing a rotted door I brought a doorframe a rod a threshold Joyce rotting under flooring rotting and a foot of them rot around the door under the vinyl siding. Everybody saying oh no big deal and I’m thinking oh yes big deal thanks for the article
Hi Debbie,
I’m glad you enjoyed the article and found it helpful.
Good luck with your project.
Thanks again
Emanuel
I have severe water damage to the sill plate under my front door. Your article is excellent in describing the steps to correct the issue properly. Although I have a lot of home repair experience, I don’t have the time currently to tackle the job. I’m going to ask for some bids to do the job. Just so I have some reference (understanding every job is different) what would the repair that you performed run today. Just looking for a ball park. I appreciate any help you can provide and keep up the excellent articles documenting the work you’re doing. Very helpful.
Emanuel L Silva I want to thank you for your very detailed
steps on repairing rotten door entry.
I have a sill or sub-sill board that is rotten ant your great steps
on how to do it I think is going to help me do it the right way, as
you have detailed the job so well.
One thing you may want to include is an “Doorway Primer” so
that those that may need it will be able to learn the parts of an
doorway.
I found this picture of a doorway with the parts labeled, at this web-site link.
.
by Mark Feirer
Note: you will need to scroll down t see this picture.
I just stumbled onto your article and just wanted to say that you have a great work ethic. I am positive your clients are all very pleased. The photos ,explanations and attention to important details are appreciated by all. Thanks from Long Island. NY. Linc
Hello, Emanuel
Great job. As you were naming all the things they did wrong when they built the house. My house was built the same way. My front door looks just like the one you were working on. I was thinking no way they could be done by the same shitty construction company . Then I read you are in New Jersey. Was that house a prefab house? My house, the door frame is rotted and so it the sill and joist. The 3/4 piece of wood that was between the steps and the house has rotted away. My house is about 14 years old. I live in levittown pa. I cant believe they did this kind of work. I don’t know what I will do.