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Timber Framing with Glulams

Over the years, I’ve done my share of beam work, but I didn’t get a taste of real timber framing until a few years ago, during the recession, when a friend and I salvaged an old barn—there wasn’t much work around and the opportunity presented itself. Even though the barn had outlived its useful days and the roof had failed, most of the timber framing was still stable. And here’s why—joinery.

Every corner post in the barn was cut with a tenon, mortised …etc. etc. Long beam spans were joined with scarf joints, and also secured with mortise-and-tenon joints to the posts. There were some bolts but very few nails (40d) to be found anywhere in the barn—all the joints were secured with hand-hewn wooden pins or dowels. That barn couldn’t fall down unless every post rotted out completely from the bottom to the top.

Ever since that teardown, I’ve wanted to use scarf joints and mortise-and-tenon post connections with Glulams. Glulam beams are nice because you can order any size—they’re readily available, economical, and fairly straight and square. Sometimes in life, you get what you wish for. Not long ago, a big job of Glulams came up and before long, instead of using steel plates and connectors, we were cutting mortise-and-tenon joints.

Layout for scarf joint and post

In this article, I’m going to describe how we used two of the joints found in that old barn: mortise and tenon joints, connecting the corner posts and beam-headers; and scarf joints—together with mortise-and-tenon joints—to join the long beam spans.

For all the joinery, we started with good drawings.

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(Note: Click any image to enlarge)

To determine the length of any scarf joints on the job, and to be sure the proportions stayed symmetrical, I took the depth of a beam and multiplied it by 1.5. In the example included in this article, we were using 12-in. beams, so the length of the scarf joint was 18 in.

I centered the overall length above the post. To avoid a sharp point that might splinter, I designed the top with a 1-in. plumb cut and the bottom—beneath the scarf joint—with a 22-degree bevel cut, which also helped transfer bearing.

To support the scarf joint beam splices, and secure the joint, I designed a tenon on the top of each bearing post, cut with a minimum 1-in. shoulder on the sides. To secure the entire joint, we used 1-in. diameter pegs driven in holes drilled approximately half way between the top and bottom of the beam and the intersection of the scarf joint.

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While we were dismantling that timber-frame barn, I found a series of very fine pencil marks or scribe lines at each peg, on each timber, which led me to believe the those carpenters drilled the holes before they assembled the beams. So I followed the same approach, which might have been more difficult but provided a few advantages—especially when it came to drawing the joinery tighter during installation, but more on that later.

Full-size patterns

I made a pattern for the scarf joint with a piece of plywood ripped to the same width as the beam. I used the center of the post for all calculations. After laying out and measuring the centers of the posts on the building, I was ready to mark the beams.

I lined the pattern up to the bottom of the beam. It’s critical that the bottom of the beams line up. If there is a slight difference in height, you can deal with it at the top of the beams by using shims.

I laid out the scarf joints on both sides of each beam, so that I could make clean cuts from both sides. Besides, these beams happen to be 6 3/4 in. wide—not even the beam saw would cut all the way through them—so we had to finish cut from the other side anyway. 057-1

After tracing good pencil lines, I used a straightedge and a knife to score the layout lines and help prevent tear out. And then I was ready to cut.

Cutting the mortises

To cut the mortises, I used a chain mortiser—a great tool that makes mortising extremely easy.

I adjusted the machine so it would cut precisely on my layout lines. 204-1

Then I just let the tool do the work. All I had to do was crank the handle.

I have a Makita Mortiser, which I think we paid about $1,200 for, though there are other models out there that adjust for angled mortises, too. The Makita I have goes about 8 in. deep, so rolling the beam over is often necessary. 058-1

My Makita cuts up to 4 1/2 in. wide in one pass, without having to reset the machine, which allowed me to make the mortise and tenons match—a definite advantage.

For big beams, where the mortise can’t cut deep enough even from both sides, I used a chainsaw to finish the cut. Because the mortise isn’t visible on these joints, I gave myself a little wiggle room and allowed for slight adjustment and an easier installation. I always try to make jobs easier on myself and speed up installation time.

160-1 A little wiggle room also helped because I had to cut the mortises first, before cutting the scarf joints, otherwise I wouldn’t be able to clamp the mortise to both sides of the beam.

Without a machine like this, you could drill out the mortise and finish with a timber-framing chisel. I’ve also seen old-time drilling apparatuses on eBay that would be perfect for this and would probably work well if they’re tuned properly.

Cut the scarf joints

There’s no special tool I know of that makes it easy to cut scarf joints. A beam saw, a Big-Foot saw, a worm-drive saw, a hand saw—if you have the game. Whatever works best for you.

For the length of the scarf joint, I started from the open end of the scarf and cut from each side of the beam, then finished up with a handsaw, cutting the butt joint and bevel joints last. I set up multiple saws for the top and bottom cuts—one for depth and angle to square-cut the top, and one to bevel-cut the bottom. I made those cuts each time I rolled the beam over. I got as close as I could to the line—never “taking” the line, then used a grinder with a 36-grit sanding pad to fine tune each cut.

Cutting the posts and tenons

I calculated my post length including the length or height of the tenons. I intentionally made the tenons a bit short, so I wouldn’t have to grind the tops off later, up in the air. As soon as I’d finished laying out the tenons, I knew exactly what size the mortises would need to be, so I could cut either one first. Like I said earlier, I always leave a little wiggle room for play, but only as much as is practical—not enough to weaken the joint. A little bit of soap or paraffin doesn’t hurt if the joint is really tight.

I started by laying out the post for the shoulder cut, all the way around, and then I cut right to those lines. I can usually “pop” off the sides with a hammer and then clean up the cut with a chisel or grinder. Then I drilled holes to match the layout on the beams. 139-1

Mitering and notching corner beams

The corner posts and beam connections were probably the trickiest—even harder than the scarf joints because of the different levels of joinery. The outside corners needed to be mitered, so no end grain would be visible. But the inside corners had to be butt joints, otherwise any wood movement at all would cause those joints to open up.

I designed a half-miter half-lap butt joint for the corners that also captured the post tenon so we could use the same pegs to secure all three components. I started by drawing very careful layout lines. 100-1
I used the beam saw to rip along each shoulder and cheek cut. 102-1

Beam saws are slow-going—you can’t push them. And they spin so slowly that you can almost count the teeth at top RPMs. The trick is to push lightly and keep the RPMs up.

I finished the miter with a worm drive after all the steps were cut.

105-2 112-2

Drilling holes for pegs

The barn I took down used 1-in. pegs. I figured that would work for this job, too, so I laid out the holes on the beam and the posts using my full-scale drawing. In some instances, I left out the upper hole on the beam’s scarf joint, in case I had to adjust the cut a little. But I made sure that both holes were aligned vertically—after all, this part of the joinery was visible. A sharp paddle bit seemed to cut the cleanest hole without tearout. I did learn that if the holes are offset a little in one direction, driving the peg in helps suck the joint tighter—which is a good thing. But if the holes are offset in the wrong direction, you have to make a correction in the air and drill out the holes, or the peg can pull the scarf joint open. Like I said earlier, I try to do everything as precisely as possible, on the ground, so I can avoid excess ladder or scaffold time later. But like most jobs, nothing is perfect and stuff happens.

The pegs

Cheap dowels might work for looks, but they snap like toothpicks—trust me.

Since the pegs from the salvaged work I did were hand-carved, I followed suit, at first. I cut a nice, straight grain piece down with the table saw, making it 1 in. square, and then I mitered the edges off to make an octagon and minimize carving. 383-1
Carving from there with a knife or block plane isn’t too bad, but with dozens of pegs, I ended up using belt sanders, which achieved the same look, more or less. You could also use a lathe, but I like the imperfections of handwork to help bind the peg into the holes. 384-1

I usually cut them to stick out an inch or so on either side, and sometimes I cut them flush or leave a little proud for a more rustic look.

Installation

Once all the layout and cuts were made, it was time for the fun part—if all my homework and cutting were done correctly!

I temped the posts up and braced them carefully, but again, with a little wiggle room, which allowed me to move them around a bit if necessary. 113-1
114-1 I started with the center span joints, so I could fine-tune the fit. The ends that were buried in the walls definitely helped provide some adjustment.
Then I worked my way across each span, using my Pettibone to swing each stick into place. 193-1
074-1 In come cases, I was able to just hold the post steady by hand, and we lowered the beam carefully onto the tenon, without any bracing. Not having any temporary bracing made it even easier, and once the joint slipped together, there was no need for bracing.
If all the joinery is laid out and cut carefully, and correctly, assembly goes extremely fast. 151-1
177-1 We usually try to properly prepare so that weather will rarely slow us down.

Sunny days can be distracting, what with the beauty of the mountains in winter…

164-1

…but we still got a lot of work done.

179-1

The corners were sometimes the most challenging. Though the beams fit perfectly around the tenons, the varying width and height of the beams required some real attention—after all, for appearance, the bottoms of the beams had to be flush, which meant minor alterations to the cheek cuts, and later, some planing and shimming at the tops of the beams.

098-1 120-1

On the corner posts I used 3/8-in. GRK timber screws so that I could lock all the joinery/elements together. Then I covered the timber screws with short pegs.

190-1

It’s not surprising for a beam or two to need a little fine-tuning, especially on the scarf joint.

But diligence in layout and precise cutting paid off in some sweet moments, where joints went together without any adjustments, even though I tried to leave a backdoor open for those moments when joints might not cooperate. 108-1

The joints came together easily, for the most part, but there was still some adjustment required. After all, the beams weren’t milled perfectly and neither am I! We had a lot of techniques at our disposal for aligning the joints, and we often used all of them. Pry-bars, chisels, and bar clamps all helped cinch the joints together.

196-1  195-1

In my experience, this type of joinery is a great option both structurally and aesthetically. And it’s not very difficult once the layout is done and you get going. Considering most other options involve square butts with exposed brackets or knife plates that don’t perform well when hogged out, I think this is a great option and a great example of how old techniques are sometimes the best techniques. One thing’s for sure: like that old barn I reclaimed, that post-and-beam home is never going to fall down.

388-1

Personally, I enjoy learning how carpenters used to work, and I enjoy re-introducing those skills to contemporary jobsites.

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I think we’re even seeing the practice establish a new architectural style, what I call “refined rustic.”

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Stay creative and when you can, enjoy the craft.

• • •

AUTHOR BIO

2014-05-02 07.43.21-1David Lemke owns Frame to Finish LLC in Bend, OR, and has been a licensed contractor for around seventeen years. Like a lot of contractors, he started in construction working with his dad on remodeling projects, and then moved on to different framing, siding, and finish crews before getting licensed. David likes to specialize in fine, upscale custom homes, but working in a somewhat limited market, and in tough economic times, over the years he’s jumped into anything and everything, from small remodels to commercial framing. When David’s not on a job or project, he likes to fish, play baseball, and go snowboarding with his kids.

Comments/Discussion

21 Responses to “Timber Framing with Glulams”

  1. Dwayne Tank

    Nice work.
    After 18 years as a carpenter I too have developed an appreciation of “old” techniques.
    Not that all things old should make a modern comeback.
    However. ..
    This is a good article and demonstrates how good technique with good craftsmanship can make for an interesting project.
    Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
  2. Mark Cadioli

    Nice work. Were your Glulams treated? Here in Australia any Glulams used for exterior work must be of treated timber.

    Reply
    • David Lemke

      Thanks, These glulams happen to be Alaskan cedar, the natural characteristics will suffice but not a code issue and they are all mostly covered and away from the ground. I have run into the treated issue with commercial work and have had to order treated but not with nasty pressure treatment.

      Reply
  3. Sim Ayers

    Looks like a fun project. Did you order the GluLams with zero camber for the scarf joints to work? What type of wood where the pegs made from?

    Reply
    • David Lemke

      Yes, ordered them mostly zero camber. I used fall off of the same material for the pegs. You could mix up the species for strength or contrast though.

      Reply
  4. Billy Dillon

    David , when making scarfs we generally make the scarf 2.5-3X the depth of the beam and the top and bottom lips are cut at 90º to the scarf . I am just wondering where you came up with 1.5 .

    Reply
    • David Lemke

      I don’t remember exactly, I have used it before and it could have been due to available length’s of beams, especially when using reclaimed. It seems to work well proportionately and for strength to me. If it were any shallower of a beam I would think lengthening the formula would be good. It also saves material and the cost per foot of beams can get pretty expensive. I like the bevel at the bottom to help transfer load, especially with glulams as the bottom chord plays a bigger role in strength. I have seen it different ways in old timber frames.

      Reply
  5. David Tuttle

    I’ve had a chance to use a few reclaimed beams in furniture and accenting a build, but admire the precision of “real” timber-framing. Thank you for a great article.

    Reply
  6. Craig Polley

    David
    Did you get any guff from inspectors wanting to see simpson connectors here or there, (which would ruin some nice work!)?

    Reply
    • David Lemke

      Good question, was waiting for someone to ask… We were able to get the engineer to sign off, otherwise it could definitely be a problem.

      Reply
  7. simon jardine

    Fantastic article, well written and very interesting, many classic barns & some modern bespoke homes here in the uk were/are built using joints & dowel construction, usually of oak & very expensive, but, like the above barn, they`ll outlive all of us, for certain!

    Reply
  8. paul gagnon

    thanks for sharing
    this projet has great structure, the finish projet is superb

    Reply
  9. Wayne Johnston

    This how we put my dads house together with built up beams and
    we put haunches for his concrete slab. We was able to do this with help from my dads friends.

    Reply
  10. John Graybill

    Good Work, I like the idea of ‘wiggle room’ for the human in us.
    Being from earthquake country I’m interested in how the post were connected to the deck framing.

    Reply
    • David Lemke

      Thanks, the post attachment at the bottom was done a couple different ways. Some of the deck beams below were 3″1/2 so I was able to notch that out of the bottom of the 6″3/4 post to leave a good amount of meat below and attach with timber screws. Some of the other posts mainly between buildings were toe screwed with timber screws. We were able to get all this approved by the engineer, even if it did take a little persuasion..

      I have used other attachments in similar situations, knife plate or sometimes have bolted a steel plate to bottom of post with timber screws and weld to another plate imbedded in concrete.

      Reply
      • John Graybill

        David,
        Thanks for the quick response. I’m glad your engineer had a open mind. It took many tries for our city building department to accept shear ply that was attached with GRK screws instead of shear nails. GRK was kind enough to provide the City Engineer with all the specs for their screws and we were able to change the code.
        Did you use penetration epoxy to seal the end grain?
        From the pictures it looks like every thing is covered. Where I work we get a lot of dense, wet wind driven fog so every joint has to be end grained sealed even Alaskan Cedar.
        Good Work! What a beautiful place to work.
        Timber Loc screws are like Mana from heaven.

        Reply
        • David Lemke

          John,
          I have heard their are engineers that specialize at least somewhat in timber framing, only makes sense as it is one of the oldest methods of carpentry their is. With GRK and other timber screws to help back up, it really should make it easier to pass code. Not everyone is willing to settle for run of the mill, plaster with stock hangers construction and shouldn’t have too. Finding and engineer to think outside the “box” a little can be a challenge, I understand as liability is always a huge concern.

          I have not heard of penetrating epoxy, but like the sounds of it. Where we live is about as dry as it gets and I try to make sure ends are at least sealed. I have built in wet climates and will look into that for future references.
          Thanks

          Reply
          • John Graybill

            David,
            The epoxy is made by Smith and Company. Standard two part mix but the solution has a very low viscosity and end grain and porous surfaces suck it right up. Great for rot repair.
            I’ve used it in dry environments to help paint grab better.
            The water based one doesn’t work very well, contains an alcohol that wood pores won’t suck up.

            Thanks

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